Do you mull over milk labels or analyse apples wondering whether to spend more for an organic version? You are not alone. Organic products often cost more than conventionally produced food and drink, and our household budgets aren’t getting any bigger. So, is it worth shelling out extra in the weekly shop? The roots of the organic movement in the UK took hold with pioneering farmer and scientist Lady Eve Balfour. In 1943, amidst rationing and the Second World War, she published The Living Soil, summarising her trials comparing organic and chemical farming methods. It challenged the use of synthetic fertilisers and intensive agriculture designed to increase the amount of food produced quickly and cheaply. Three years later, she co-founded the Soil Association. Today, the market for organic food is more buoyant than ever, hitting record sales last year, according to the Soil Association.
However, the amount of farmland in the UK dedicated to organic farming “remains stuck on 3 per cent” so we’re heavily reliant on imports. Its Organic September campaign aims to raise awareness of the benefits of these food and farming practices to encourage more of it. The choice to buy organic isn’t just for the wealthy: the Organic Research Centre’s 2024 Consumer Insight Report reveals that lower- and middle-income shoppers are now the most frequent buyers of organic food and drink. In fact, those in the highest income bracket tend to be “deal-seekers”, buying organic less often and only when prices align with conventional options.
But what does organic mean on the ground? At its heart, it’s about a specific set of standards that work with nature rather than against it. These include no synthetic chemical pesticides or herbicides (weedkillers) unless specifically approved, no genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and high animal welfare standards, with strict rules on the use of antibiotics, feed and housing conditions. Organic farming uses practices that build soil health, such as crop rotation, which support nature. Convenience foods must meet further strict standards around what goes in and what’s left out. That means no artificial colours or preservatives, and fewer ultra-processed ingredients. The Soil Association is the UK’s best known organic certifier, often setting higher standards than the legal minimum. It works alongside Organic Farmers & Growers (OF&G), which certifies over half of the UK’s organic land.
The case for organic food
It’s a no-brainer from a planetary health perspective; chemical fertilisers and pesticides are depleting our soils and affecting biodiversity. Think: fewer bees and birds, and the loss of millions of microbes that make soil thrive. These chemicals also run into waterways, disrupting nature. Over the past 60 years, research has shown a steady decline in the nutritional quality of our fruits, vegetables and food crops. This has been linked to chemical farming, soil degradation, rising CO₂ levels and the cultivation of high-yield crop varieties that prioritise speed over nutrition. Animal welfare is another strong argument. Much of our meat and dairy comes from animals raised quickly in confined spaces, with the help of antibiotics and growth enhancers.
Organic farming gives animals space, better diets and a slower, more natural life. Organic dairy cows, for instance, must eat a diet that’s at least 60 per cent forage – grasses and wild plants, not just processed feed. As clover is commonly used to enrich organic soil naturally, it ends up in the cows’ diet, boosting the omega-3 content of their milk and meat. Studies show organic milk and meat contain around 50 per cent more beneficial omega-3 fatty acids than their conventional counterparts. There is also the not-so-small matter of pesticide residues. When our fruits and vegetables are sprayed with chemical cocktails, these linger on the produce we eat ending up inside us. While it’s hard to quantify how much we can stomach, some groups – particularly babies, young children and teenagers – are likely more vulnerable as their bodies are still developing.
Nick Mole from Pesticide Action Network UK explains: “Far too little is known about how multiple pesticide residues interact with each other and the possible health effects that this might have.” Many are endocrine disruptors, chemicals that can interfere with our hormones, even at very low doses. Emerging research also shows that pesticide residues may disturb our gut microbiome – the community of microbes that support digestion, immunity and overall health. Reduced diversity in the gut has been linked to inflammation and a range of chronic issues. While the science is still unfolding, it provides one more reason to tread mindfully.
The grey area
The overall health benefits of going organic are less clear-cut. As Shefalee Loth, nutritionist at Which?, explains: "Nutrition research is complex and expensive. The gold standard would be strict scientific methodology, but you can't lock people in rooms for years and control everything they eat."
Instead, most research is observational, tracking what people say they eat over time. While there are hundreds of observational studies looking into the health benefits of organic foods, she stresses that these findings aren't as conclusive. Our health, after all, depends on many things, not just what we eat but how much we move, how well we sleep, our stress levels and our income.
Shefalee notes that many gut health studies have been carried out in labs and on mice or rats and we can't say for sure the same effects would be seen in humans. She adds, "Eating a wide variety of plant foods is beneficial (organic or not) and eating fermented foods may also have a positive effect. Medications and artifical sweeteners can negatively impact the diversity of your gut microbiome as can your enviornment, lifestyle, sleep patterns, alcohol and smoking. These are all likely to have more of an effect compared to whether you eat organic food or not."
Adding to the uncertainty is a lack of funding into research. Less than one per cent of all UK farming research goes to organic systems. Soil Association is working with the British Ecological Society on a meta-analysis to better understand organic farming's impact, both environmentally and on human health.
Then there is the question of cost. Organic farming often involves more hands-on work, from weeding without chemicals to raising animals with space, time and care. An organic chicken, for example, lives twice as long as a conventional one and eats twice as much feed. Smaller economies of scale, certification fees and patchy supply chains all add up.
Supermarket pricing can also make conventional food seem cheaper than it really is. Still, it doesn't have to be this way.
Co-ops like Manchester's Unicorn Grocery have shown that organic produce can match or even beat conventional produce when pricing is transparent.
While certification gives shoppers confidence, it's not always practical for smaller food producers. "The bar can be really very high," says Nick Jefferson of online farmer's market Wylde. "If they're selling into wholesalers or supermarkets, the return often doesn't justify the effort." Wylde does its own investigations on how suppliers operate and often turns them away.
As Shefalee says, "Buying organic is a personal choice." While is may not be possible for everyone, more people are prioritising it. With government support, such as Scotland's Organic Action Plan, and more of us buying organic, the hope is that costs will fall and access will grow. Every time we choose organic, we're voting with our wallets for better farming, fairer systems and food that values people as much as the planet. Going fully organic might not be possible for everyone, but there are small, smart choices that make a difference.
Smart ways to go organic
Choose cheaper cuts of organic meat
Use a slow cooker or pressure cooker to tenderise the meat and maximise its flavour in the most cost-effective way.
Check out our slow cooker recipes and pressure cooker recipes for inspiration.
Look in the freezer aisle
The range of organic frozen fruits and vegetables is on the rise.
Stock up on household staples like beans, pulses and grains
While more expensive than their conventional cousins, they’re still affordable and readily available.
Swap your spices
A small change makes a big difference in taste, and supports overseas farmers exposed to high levels of agricultural chemicals.
Know the worst offenders
Check PAN UK’s annual Dirty Dozen list of fruit and veg with the highest pesticide residues. Oats and citrus fruits are regular offenders.
Try a double soak
New research shows that soaking smooth-skinned fruit like apples, pears or grapes in a two per cent cornflour solution followed by a five per cent bicarbonate of soda solution for 5-10 mins each can remove more than 90 per cent of some pesticide residues. It won’t touch pesticides absorbed into the flesh, though.
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Mallika is a food writer and cookbook author. She writes an award-nominated newsletter called In Good Taste on food, people and the planet, and is a qualified expert on sustainability. @mallikabasu_
source https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/sustainability/good-food-doesnt-have-to-cost-the-earth
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